Day 12 Hitler's Eagle's Nest & Koenigsee Alpine Lake Aug. 9, 2010

For Hitler's 50th birthday, his loyal followers built him a safe retreat on the tip- top of a mountain. According to the guides, he had a fear of heights, and so he actually came up to the Eagles' Nest only a few times. What the guides don't tell you, though, was that he spent a lot of time just below here. His heavy- duty Bavarian war headquarters was the resort town of Berch-tesgaden. In fact, he had 8 levels of under- ground bunkers right where you get on the bus to ride up to the Eagle's Nest. The beer hall that's there now was the ballroom of the old German headquarters.

After the war, Americans made it into an R & R center called the General Walker Hotel. When we lived in Germany years ago, we brought kids here for youth conference. When the Americans left, the Germans tore down most of the hotel so the number of rooms would not compete with the local zimmer freis. I think they also wanted to wipe out anything to do with Hitler. The fireplace you see in the picture is up in the Eagle's Nest, and there are pix of Hitler in front of the same fireplace

While we were there it was amazing to watch the rapidly shifting clouds. Standing atop the mountain, you saw one side below completely enshrouded by clouds and mist. I loved watching the clouds rise up to meet us. The view in the other direction was completely clear over far mountain ranges and you could see past Salzburg in the distance. Ten minutes later, it was reversed, and the beautiful Koenigsee could be seen to your left, while Salzburg had been swallowed up in white.

The only thing that can top the Eagle's Nest is the electric boat ride on the Koenigsee (King's Lake.) The steep- sided mountains lead down to water over a thousand feet deep. You glide smoothly toward your destination at the end of the lake. St. Bartholomae Church is over 500 years old. When you're half way there, the driver cuts the motor and pulls out a trumpet from under the bench. He plays a haunting song, which bounces off the mountainside and echoes back to you a moment later. Every time I go, I am struck by the beauty of the music and I wish he would keep playing. Alas, one short song, and he returns to driving the boat. This is one of the most beautiful places on earth.

Returning to the dock and oh- so perfect tourist shops, you don't even mind the crowds. We always try to talk to others on the boat and discover the many countries they are from.