This morning my train did not leave until 10:37, but I was ready at 8:30. What to do to use the extra time profitably? There were lots more things to do in Florence that I didn't get to do, but the only real heartburn I had was not making it up to Piazzale Michelangelo, the lovely lookout over the whole city that has the big replica of David. I checked all the bus routes, and decided to try it. It would be really tight, but I felt good about it, so I went.
I rushed 5 blocks to the correct bus stop dragging both suitcases, but the bus didn't come for 25 minutes, which is a really long time in Florence. I was watching on the map where we were going so that I would know where to get off, but when we got there, it was really obvious. There I am in the picture above, at Piazzale Michaelangelo. I discovered that the same bus I'd just gotten off would come again in 20 minutes, and it would go directly to the train station! I would not have to take the bus I planned, switch busses, wait again, and hope I got there on time! So I was even half an hour early! Some things are just plain great.
Last night after I sent my e-mail to you, I had a funny travel experience. When I signed off, I realized I might be in trouble getting home, because it was quarter to ten on Sunday night. So I walked rapidly across the old center of town, past the Palazzo Vecchio (pix at left, except it was dark) and by the Uffizzi, and it was pretty empty. I turned the corner and started walking up this little narrow medieval street to where I thought I could get a bus for my hotel. After a minute, I saw a bus turn the corner up ahead of me, but it was too far away, and I couldn't get it. I hurried up to the bus stop, about a block away, and here came another bus. It wasn't the right one, but at that hour I figured I'd better just take it as far as it kept going my direction, and then get off and walk.The driver was going pretty fast down the very narrow street. It's about as wide as Wendy's driveway, and there was a row of cars parked on the left, so it was really tight for our speed. Soon I could see that we were catching up to the first bus, which had slowed down for an even narrower area caused by some construction. The bus in front of us was the bus number I needed! So with much gesturing and pointing, I asked the driver, "Can I get on that bus?" Somehow he understood. He started going really fast and flashing his lights again and again. The first bus stopped at the constricting point, and I did the dare and jumped out of the rear bus; the front bus opened his back doors, and I hoppped in! It worked! As I waved to the driver of the bus behind me I could hardly believe my good fortune! This bus took me within 3 blocks of my hotel, and I was in my own room less than 25 minutes after I left the internet point downtown. Some things are just great . . .
So the train ride from Florence to Venice was really very pretty in spots, especially when the sun came out. There were lots of Italian soldiers on the train, too, all with camouflage backpacks and green canvas suitcases. They said they were going to a place near Venice.I have learned train WC's suck, but that's better than having to hunt for one after you stop, dragging all your luggage.
Internet gets more expensive as you go North. The countryside gets prettier, too, and it looks llike the people are a little richer. This internet tonight cost me €10.50 for 90 minutes. I am deep in the back alleys of Venice. The hotel was €5 for 30 minutes. In Rome I only paid €3 for 90 minutes.
After arriving in Venice, I drug my suitcases all over creation trying to find the hotel. It's really close to the train station, but on an island across the Grand Canal. I just took the long way around and around.I have a tiny little room with 2 youth size single beds, a glass chandelier, and hand-painted door decorations. I have my own bathroom, but it's across the hall. Both doors lock automatically every time they shut, so I have to take my key with me every time, and you know how slick I am at opening locks!
I finally got on the vaporetto toward St. Mark's Square where the big church is. I took lots of photos as we went down the Grand Canal for all of you who don't get to come in June. You'll just have to see my pix! It was 3 in the afternoon, but the light was already that kind of gold you always see in pictures of Venice. I found that gondolas are always black with a gold pinstripe, because of a 500-year old law.
St. Mark's Cathedral looks like something out of The Arabian Nights. It's white and gold and has five pointy onion domes on top. It is so cool! The floor is covered in tiny marble mosaics, and it's uneven as the waves of the sea. Venice is sinking, but not very evenly! I went behind the altar to see the golden altarpiece. Amazing! It's all gold, about 4 feet by 8 feet long, and covered in painted enamel pictures and decorated with real rubies, emeralds, pearls, topaz, and more gold. The treasure came from Venetian ships ransacking Constantinople, another Christian city. Under the altar are supposedly the bones of St. Mark, as in Matthew, Mark , Luke, and John.I need to finish this and get back to the hotel, which is probably an hour's walk and boat ride away. This internet place is definitely in the bowels of Venice. It does have a concrete street, but it's only ten feet wide, down 4 little alleys with turns to get here.
In Florence the have tiny little delivery trucks, some no taller than Sarah or Tiffany, and as long as the armspan of Michael and Andrew put together. They are about as wide as Jared's armspan. They have only 3 wheels, like a tricycle Amy might ride. There are all kinds, and I even saw one that was a dump truck!
You can't drive in Florence. Every single parking place is filled, except I saw 2 on Sunday. They have a system that takes pictures of every license plate that enters the no-drive zone in the old city, and if you don't have a permit, or have not registered your car with your hotel beforehand, you will get a hefty fine added to your rental car bill! So that's why the traffic is heavy, but not gridlocked.
I have seen lots of little olive orchards from the train. Wherever there's a bit of ground, they plant a few rows of olive trees. You can tell by the grey-green leaves.I have seen lots of men kissing girls. For some reason it looks different that in the USA, because the man is actively doing the kissing, and initiating it. The girl seems to be the receiver.
Heidi, I took your advice and bought a phone card as soon as I got here, but I never could figure out how to make it work. I have tried several times. So Larry, sorry that I have not called you!
I about froze to death in Florence. In church I asked if they had any heat in this country, and they said yes, usually, but it was only just past November 15. I asked, "What does that have to do with it?" That's the date the government turns the heat on. What!!? "I suppose you could turn it on earlier, but it's very expensive." The government mandates that hotels turn on heat after November 15. So the church was still freezing on the 20th, because no one had been in those rooms since the 15th. Is Italy Socialist?
This has been a wonderful trip. I just wish I had one of you or some of you or even all of you to share it with! I'd have run your legs off, I'm sure!
I will write again tomorrow night, after my last day in Italy. Then Wednesday I come home: bus to airport, Venice to Paris, Paris to Atlanta, Atlanta to SLC. My plane comes in about 9:30 p.m. I think.
I love you all,
Mom
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